TRAVEL - New England

The Spirit of America by Nathalie Kyrou

For a taste of New England, take a road trip down the Coast of Massachusetts and a walking tour of Boston

One evening, over bottle of wine (and don’t most good travel ideas begin in just this way?), my friends and I pull out a map of North America, excited at the thought of seeing its beautiful north-eastern coast, most commonly known as New England. Many of America’s pivotal events have been played out against the backdrop of Massachusetts, which has always been New England’s industrial and intellectual hub. It is here, in its capital city, Boston, where the seeds of democracy were first planted, where colonial leaders signed the Declaration of Independence, where the strongest roots of the American Revolution took place, blossoming into the birth of a nation, something which has forever altered the course of world history.

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My first impression of Boston is that this city is, to say the least, incredibly photogenic. The distinctly Bostonesque red brick buildings, gleaming cobblestone streets, parks, ponds and abundant greenery are all crying out to be captured on film and frozen in time. I am captivated by the view from the balcony of the 24th floor of the Radisson Hotel: a spectacular panorama of Boston’s skyscrapers standing out boldly against a blue sky.

A walk later down the renown Boylston Road takes us past the famous Trinity Church to the hip and fashionable area of Newbury Street. This trendy road, surrounded by trees which will later be lit up with fairy lights, is similar to a boutique adorned neighbourhood of some fancy European city. In fact, American as it may be, Boston, with its river and old buildings, draws many similarities to the typical large European city - perhaps one of the reasons why it is so popular with tourists. We dine at ‘Stephanie’s on Newbury’, devouring our enormous burgers with appetite, washing them down with decent tasting local beer.

Much to my delight, the terrible weather predictions for the next few days prove false, and the next morning greets us with more sunshine and warm temperatures, making it the perfect day for a road trip down to Cape Cod. The two hour drive south is picturesque as we leisurely pass by New England homes which seem to have stepped right out of a story book. Framed by spring blossoms, the painted wooden houses - proudly bearing the American flag – colourfully decorate the leafy tree-lined roads along the coast.

We stop in Plymouth, a sea-side town known for the ship, The Mayflower, which brought the first Pilgrims here from the U.K. in 1620. When it set anchor here, their colony became the first permanent English settlement in North America and thus was created ‘The New World’, coining the term ‘New England’. Plymouth is a lovely town, both quaint and residential, yet with an endless crowd of tourists. The Mayflower II, a replica of the original boat, travelled here in 1957 from the U.K., and is now permanently docked by Plymouth Rock. The traditionally costumed guides give us a detailed description of life aboard the ship in that era. This type of historical lifestyle immersion is common in Massachusetts, where one can find numerous museums in the form of period villages set back in time, such as The Plymouth Plantation. These outdoor replicas of 18th century villages are great attractions for visitors to the area wishing to immerse themselves in history and tradition.

We resume our drive southward and reach Cape Cod. We leave the car and take the ferry from Woods Hole to the famous Martha’s Vineyard. This island, situated off the south coast of the Cape, is much larger than we had expected. I discover that the best way to tour it if you are in a hurry and have not brought your car over is by bus. Although the bus routes are not extensive, the day pass allows you to easily explore the island’s scenery, which contrasts sharply from region to region: inhabited towns, rugged shorelines, deserted beaches, picturesque ports and dense inland forests.

A forty five minute ferry ride brings us back to Cape Cod, but by the time we set off in the car to its northern shore, it is already dusk. At this time of the evening we are unable to see any of the beautiful scenery or take advantage of some of the area’s greatest beaches. The drive along the unlit streets of the peninsula seems never ending, and apart from the occasional rotating beam of light from a nearby lighthouse, the darkness is monotonous. We finally arrive at the tip of the peninsula called Province Town, which is now eerily deserted. The streets, with their trendy shops, art galleries and restaurants, are all already closed for the day.

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Boston is lively in springtime and the streets are filled with people. The place is bustling with youth since it is graduation time and Boston is home to several universities. The most renown of these is Harvard, the oldest and most prestigious college in the nation. We decide to take the T - the Boston subway - to Harvard, which is in the town of Cambridge on the north-west side of Charles River. Harvard Square welcomes us with its crowds of students and their visiting parents, families with children, local artists and musicians. I stroll leisurely around the university grounds, pausing in Harvard Yard to take in the scenery: lush green gardens, beautiful monuments and grand architecture.

At the shop on Brattle Street, I buy souvenirs. The ‘Au Bon Pain’ chain of sandwich shops, popular in Boston, can also be found at the corner of Harvard Square. Outside, on the patio, sit numerous old homeless-looking men who nevertheless are enjoying themselves immensely as they play chess for money, with expertise. This memorable scene reminds me of the coffee shops in Cypriot villages, where elderly men play backgammon all day long. Later, I take a short rest by the roadside, surrounded by flower shops and street entertainers while music drifts to me from every direction. I decide that Cambridge is indeed magical and seems to me the ideal place to spend the summer.

Upon our return to Boston, we get out at Park Street and walk up Boston Common, the largest park in the city centre. The Public Gardens, with its weeping willows framing a rippling pond of glimmering waters, offer a tranquil place to rest one’s weary feet. We proceed onwards to the Massachusetts State House, its domed roof staring down at us in glittering gold. We turn right into the Government Centre, also the financial district as well as the heart of the Old City. Historical buildings, predating American Independence, are prevalent amongst the more recent skyscrapers, offering glimpses of a colonial past.

The Boston Globe Shop, one of the oldest stores in the U.S., is named after the city’s local newspaper, and is not to be missed. Inside, you will find a variety of books specialising in the city’s history, authentic dated journals displaying historical news, and striking pictures of New England taken by local photographers. After touring the historical venues, we walk all the way to Faneuil Hall and, another famous Bostonian landmark, Quincy Marketplace. The market is alive and brimming with people, colours and intoxicating smells. Seafood is advertised everywhere and our stomachs are beginning to grumble. But the powerful positive vibe spreading through the streets douses us in good spirits, and nothing - not even hunger - can spoil our enjoyment of what is apparently the city’s first day of spring.

The waterfront beckons us at the North End of Boston. We pause at the end of Long Wharf from where the view of the city is supreme. To our dismay, there are no restaurants along the water, so we continue south along the sea-front searching for an ideal spot for lunch. Boston, and New England in general, have always had excellent harbours that centuries ago gave the area access to the West Indies, Europe and farther afield, aiding to develop a maritime trade with the spices and teas of the Far East. Nearby, at Griffin’s Wharf, is located a vessel resembling the original Boston Tea Party ship. It was here that a protest occurred in 1773 involving patriots tossing bales of tea overboard. Today, on this vessel, one can take part in a re-enactment of this event.

Further along, we stop briefly at the historic Boston Harbour Hotel, one of the oldest buildings in the city. The place is adorned with intricate models of ships, ancient sea and navigation maps, as well as battle plans. As I exit, I notice that there is a strong feeling of patriotism all around us, as American flags border every building, ship and monument. Boston’s importance in American history has left it with a unique legacy of old buildings, and religious structures, unsurpassed in beauty, of which there seem to be too many to keep track of! With its wealth of sites, I become more and more aware how fascinating a city this is to explore.

Boston is impregnated with early American architectural styles, from Colonial to Greek Revival, all of which have influenced buildings across New England for many centuries. Moreover, in this delightful city, there are always surprises waiting for you around the corner. For example, as we stroll down King’s Chapel and Burial Ground to the Old State House, we suddenly find ourselves at the spot where the Declaration of Independence was first read out after its signing in 1776, which eventually led to the American Revolution. I stand there entranced with haunting images of The Boston Massacre, which also took place in this site.

For a change of scenery, a few minutes walk across Atlantic Avenue will lead you to the waterfront. We pass by the Aquarium, and though it is one of Boston’s main attractions, we are now driven by a greater force than that of curiosity: that of insatiable hunger. Luckily, when we cross Northern Ave Bridge, we find the Barking Crab Shack, where we finally settle for our long awaited lunch. Finding a seat by the water, we bask in the sunshine, absorbing the energy around us while cheerful crowds gather on long wooden benches. The smell of seafood is intense. I indulge in tasty fried clams - a dish that this region is known for - and replenish my energy by devouring an entire fresh lobster (the best I have ever tasted), served to me in a paper plate with only a rock (to smash the shell open),a tub of melted butter and lemon wedges.

That evening, most of us are still full from our late lunch, so instead of dining we decide to walk up Beacon Hill, where we discover one of the most beautiful areas of Boston. Charles Street is the shopping area, home to wine and cheese shops, delicatessens, unique boutiques and antique dealers – a neighbourhood, reminiscent of a time long gone. The old but well preserved town “mansions” line the narrow cobblestoned streets, forming an elite and nostalgic village scene. Unforgettable are the ivy covered walls; the expensively furnished and warmly lit interiors; the cosy, romantic restaurants whose cellars pose as dining rooms, their private courtyards immersed in inviting candlelight, luring visitors in with mellow music.

At the bottom of the hill we walk west along Beacon Street to the original Bull and Finch pub which inspired the sitcom series ‘Cheers’. Then, in the mood for dessert, we make our way to a patisserie called ‘Finale’. Here, the chefs are performers who display their pastry skills to the public as they work on sweet creative delicacies which are minuscule but rich and delicately decorated. The place is both elegant and busy, and we have to wait a while for a table, but the expensive and decadent culinary experience is worth the wait.

The next morning, the subway from Arlington takes us on the Green Line all the way to Haymarket, where the streets, wet and glistening from the rain, remind me of some old parts of London, England. In the centre of this area is located the outdoor Holocaust museum, which consists of a single walkway along which have been erected several glass towers on which are engraved the prisoner numbers of all the Holocaust victims. The tall transparent towers, each representing a concentration camp, are etched with tiny figures indicating the millions of prisoners. As the numbered dead loom up and fade into the grey sky, the breathtakingly horrific scene is mesmerizingly tragic.

Nearby lies Boston’s ‘Little Italy’. It is hard to decide which place to lunch at since there are so many little restaurants, clay-oven pizzerias and cafes to choose from along Salem and Hanover Streets. This part of Boston is famous for several reasons, one of which is Paul Revere, an American hero who made a memorable ride on horseback from the city to the countryside in order to warn the locals that the British were on their way to attack. Paul lived in what is now considered the oldest house in Boston. Behind his statue on horseback (which can be found in the nearby Paul Revere Mall), one can see the spire of the Old North Church - second oldest in the city - with its pristine white interior and traditional box pews.

It is this site which separates the two halves of the Freedom Trail, a walking route that weaves its way through the city, one of the highlights of Boston and more directly linked to the American Revolution than anything else in the country. This discovery trail takes you on a journey through all the important landmarks and sites relating to the Revolution and other freedoms gained by Bostonians. Running for miles from south to north, marked by red lines painted on the pavement, it is a tour of the past in a city that established among its many attributes: literacy, ingenuity, religion, politics and more importantly, freedom. In this birthplace of influential heroes and powerful minds, there are marks of genius all over the place, as well as an indescribable spirit of courage lingering in the air. I find my heart swells with tremendous emotion in these surroundings, and I suddenly fully understand why the licence plates of this state declare Massachusetts as the ‘Spirit of America’.

We ride the subway all the way back to Copley Square, where can be found the famous Boston Public Library; apart from the great works of literature housed there, its inspiring interior and captivating exterior are majestic works of art, worth viewing alone. We take refuge from the incessant rain at Copley Mall, which is filled with designer shops targeted to an artistic, wealthy market.

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Although our trip to New England is over too soon, the enticing image of Boston in the springtime is still fresh in my mind. What I have seen of this city and its surrounding coast-line, I have loved. It is not an exaggeration to say that I am inspired. Boston, quintessential birthplace of America, and home to intellectuals, writers and poets for centuries, is a haven for artists who continue to take inspiration for their most incredible works from these equally fascinating surroundings. Surpassing all of this is the feeling that wherever you come from and whatever your tastes may be, once you have visited Massachusetts, New England, you will feel a sense of belonging, and once you leave - if you do - the impact of this place will leave you changed forever.

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Copyright © Nathalie Kyrou 2009

TRAVEL-Cuba

From one sea to another: A Cypriot visits Cuba by Nathalie Kyrou

The first thing I notice is the heat. Stepping off the plane, I feel like a cigar being placed in a humidor. Although I have just stepped across the world onto Cuban soil, the airport, signs, chaos at passport control, as well as the locals welcoming us tourists, are all strangely reminiscent of my own country - also an island - Cyprus.

From one island and sea (and literally ‘C’) to another, I notice the similarities between Cyprus and Cuba end once you exit the airport. Back home there may be old Mercedes taxis still functioning, but here a variety of antique cars dating all the way back to the 1950s are parked on roadsides, their vibrant colours reflecting the brilliant sun. Around us, the plentiful vegetation is also a little more dense and abundant than I had expected. Coconut palm trees - very different in appearance to the other species one is used to seeing back home - fill the landscape. This island, like my own native land, is at first impression very hot, but unlike the yellow dryness of the Cypriot summer, Cuba is extremely green, reminding me that I am indeed in the tropics.

If you are heading off to the most popular beach resort in the country, you will most probably be making your way to Varadero, and to do this you must enter the province of Havana. The drive along the peninsula to my hotel is remarkable: traditional Cuban homes, crumbling in poverty, are postcard material; screaming with character, they border the roads, adorned with colourful washed clothes hanging on the line, blowing in the breeze. There is a sweet rich smell lingering in the air, but I cannot pin down what it is exactly. Cubans, sitting along the dusty roadside or crouched on dilapidated rooftops, seemed undisturbed by the sound of our tour bus whizzing past – they are obviously used to this tourist invasion. Exotic plants line the thick red soil of the surrounding farmlands, and everywhere I turn there is water. Not only is the peninsula of Varadero merely 700 metres wide, as well as being surrounded by water on both sides it is also filled with water in its centre, in a form comparable to a large dam.

It may sound cliché, but I cannot wait to see the beach, which is after all the reason I booked this vacation in the first place! Having grown up in the sea-side town of Lemesos, be it across the world, I have the salty taste of the sea in my veins. But to my disappointment, after waiting my entire life to see the Caribbean Sea up close, this aquamarine water framed by fine white sand is not as calm as advertising photographs have promised it to be. In my dreams of this place, the waves are not as fierce, nor is the wind. Being used to the tranquillity of the Mediterranean waters my entire life, I am not accustomed to the ferocity of this vast surf before me, so I feel both excited and a little fearful as I step into this tropical sea for the first time. In fact, I only actually experience one morning of crystal clear, still water during my entire week-long stay in Cuba. It is true that no matter what time of year you decide to visit, it really is down to luck whether you will be wrestling for your life as you dodge the violent waves or enjoying yourself as you float calmly whilst snorkelling on the reef.

The next morning promises tamer weather. The smell of sweet coconut and banana oils wafts through the air. Seeking the soothing shade as well as protection from the sharp breeze, I settle under the cover of my straw thatched parasol. In my section of the beach, the sun beds are set back at least fifty metres from the shore. Nestled near the plants and trees, they leave a large stretch of pristine, powdery white, untouched sand between the people and the ocean. As much as I love my own country, Ayia Napa this is not. There is no-one to bother you out here, no messy, dirty sun-beds, no children screaming. For most of the relaxed bodies, either asleep, or sipping on cocktails, the relentless wind and scorching sand make reaching the water too tiresome a challenge, even to those who are attracted by the idea of exploring the warm sea. As a result, the scenery remains fairly empty and thus, picture perfect. As I settle down onto my űber-comfortable sun-bed, I am intoxicated by the peaceful mood around me, only slightly distracted by the occasional Latino vibes filtering through the atmosphere from a salsa class being held somewhere in the distance.

A day out in the sun will definitely stir up the appetite, and if you are staying in a beach resort complex comprised of more than one hotel, it is typical that you’ll have access to all of its hotel restaurants for meals, leaving you with an impressive choice of places to dine. The strangest meal I devour on this trip is at the seaside wooden hut tavern: a dish of rice topped with a fried egg, framed by a cooked sweet plantain banana, served with fresh tomato sauce and a side order of black beans (a very odd combination indeed, but a local delicacy nevertheless). Once I have scrambled it altogether - as instructed by my waiter - I admit it is, to my surprise, delicious. And as if that is not enough, I have fresh Cuban fish to follow, and for dessert, decadent homemade coconut ice-cream. No matter how good the food is, however, based on my experience as a traveller it may prove a good idea to cut meat out of your diet during such a voyage for a variety of reasons, the benefit being that because of this you will be forced to try vegetarian options such as fish and seafood instead (even though most Cuban dishes contain pork or chicken – unlike beef which is rare here and thus too expensive). The fresh grilled snapper, calamari and shrimp are succulent and delectable, and with no doubt the best choice anyway, and the paella, served fresh off the grill by the poolside, is truly the best I have ever tasted. It also is worth your while to consume as much tropical fruit as possible while out here, because not only is it local, abundant and fresh, it does not cost you a thing (unlike drinks – including bottled water – which you may be charged for even if you are on an inclusive package).

On my second evening, I venture out of the resort with some hotel guests, (did I mention that everybody out here is either German, Russian, French or Canadian), accompanied by one of the hotel entertainers. We go to a Cuban 1950s style club which features a live Latin band called Mambo. The moment we walk into the night spot we are faced with a humorous sight: at least fifty people on the dance floor doing a form of synchronised dancing which reminds me of the Macarena or perhaps a Cuban version of line dancing. I realise I need a drink! A ten dollars entrance fee to the club gives me access to an open bar all night, allowing me to sample a variety of local beverages. I try two rum cocktails: Rum Punch and the famous Mohito (made with real sugar cane) which is refreshing and highly addictive. Turning back to the dance floor, I am now ready to join the others and lose myself in the vibe (and gosh, can these Cubans dance!) My favourite music is by the famous Cuban band ‘Las Orishas’ – a mixture of French and Spanish rap over Latino style melodies. Club Rhumba is another option if you are looking for a busier spot with a somewhat more international scene. The nightlife here is the same as on any party island: young people having fun into the early hours of the morning.

Not surprisingly, I find it very hard waking up at the crack of dawn for my excursion to Cuba’s capital, Havana. With swollen ankles and a sore sunburn (I should have remembered that the closer you get to the equator, the stronger the sun is), I board the bus and sleep for the most of the two hour drive out to the capital, unfortunately missing out on all the scenery along the way. I awaken to crumbling eighteenth century buildings in faded colours, to a cultural and historic city which is overpopulated and drenched in an extremely pungent smell, and also to poverty. We drive around Havana, trying to pay attention to our uninformative and sadly rather boring tour guide, stopping to have lunch in a restaurant set in an old pink house. We then visit the downtown area, the oldest part of the capital, which is definitely also the poorest. It had been said that smell may be the strongest trigger of memory, but unlike the warm, salty, humid air of Cyprus, or the crisp, cold, damp smell of London, the stench in downtown Havana is not one you would care to remember. The stray dogs, overstuffed horse-driven carts and buses only add to the sickening and unbearable stink of human and animal pollution. Intolerable and suffocating, it is spread around by the warm breeze, leaking into even the smallest cracks and corners.

On a brighter note, upon our tour of this city, which is rich in culture and immersed in history, we come across numerous noteworthy sites: a park named after and dedicated to John Lennon by all his fans (I had not realised what an impact he had made on Cubans before this), the hotel where Earnest Hemmingway lived for four years while he wrote “For whom the Bell Tolls” (in fact he lived in Cuba for 18 whole years), and a beautiful old Spanish church (having been mesmerized by its beauty, I cannot for some reason remember why it is famous). More interesting yet is the fact that Christopher Columbus first embarked here, on this very island, when he crossed the Atlantic Ocean on his famous voyage.

The market place of downtown Havana is also worthy of a visit, brimming with life and immensely colourful, but it is fair to say that practically every stall sells mostly the same items. People will always haggle with prices too, even offering to barter their goods with the contents of one’s handbag: candy, jewellery, used cosmetics. (Several people even walk up to me in the streets and beg me for ‘savon’, which I only later realise means that those poor citizens were in need of soap! In the museum we visit, the women staff plead with us to give them candy or medication for their children. I wish I was more prepared and had brought along supplies with me). Nonetheless, despite all the desperation, only a few elderly people sitting on the steps of the church actually beg for money. In fact, Havana is not the poorest city I have ever been to, but it still lacks certain things which we in the developed world take for granted, making it deprived in its own way. I also think this is the first place I have ever been to where nowhere is to be found any Coca-Cola sign. Most of us may have become accustomed to the fact that American products are omnipresent throughout the world, but in Cuba, where the opposite is the case, you really notices their absence.

We finally visit the Romeo and Juliet cigar factory - whether you are a cigar aficionado or not, this is certainly not to be missed - picking up a box of cigars to take home on our way out. Although glad to have experienced Havana, I am more than ready to return to my hotel. Once again within the confines of this heavenly prison, I discover the best way to get a feel for the authentic Cuban vibe is to smoke one of those cigars, or preferably one rolled freshly by the lady at the cigar stall in your hotel lobby. There, as you sit in the breeze of the hotel terrace, cigar in mouth, you can truly relax while you mentally prepare yourself for the morning antics. I say this because mornings are war time in the hotel, as one gets up earlier than can be considered desirable, simply in order to secure sun-beds. After a few unsuccessful tries, on my the fourth day, I awaken extra early, before the attendants are even up and about, and actually manage to acquire a suitable lounging spot on the beach, but much to my dismay, not only does it rain all morning, but it remains cloudy and windy all day long! Cold but stubborn as a mule, I stay on the beach, listening to music and trying to read, while all around me the beds are for once empty, as more people more sensible than myself seek more appropriate pastimes for such weather.

Finally, a sandstorm on the beach diverts me to the swimming pool and recreation area. It is only after I walk around the grounds a little, that I discover the secret swimming pool by the hotel bungalows. There I find a true oasis, with cosy corners surrounded by palms swaying in the breeze, framed by wooden bridges. The pool’s inviting and calm turquoise waters lure me in, and I finally get the swim I deserve. Afterwards, I decide to continue my stroll through the fascinating tropical grounds and gardens of the hotel. Lush in greenery and elaborate in design, the hotel grounds are spectacular, the only disappointing fact being that they are not well lit at night; the high arches and numerous plants in the fancy gardens lay asleep in the enveloping darkness which forbids the wandering guest from exploring. The gardens, in general though, far outshine the hotel rooms, which are bathed in intense pink paint, and lined with marble floors which augment and echo any kind of noise (my advice is if you are looking for peace and quiet, sleep on the beach). On the other hand, all this is made up for by the wonderful sounds that also surround me, sounds that remind me of my childhood: the soft rustling of the palm leaves against each other, the wind howling, whistling then whispering, the lapping then smashing of waves on the beach, a loud cricket’s song and a bird’s soothing lullaby (all of which of course I notice only when the rest of the noise has died down).

On my last day in Cuba, I am thrilled that the morning greets me with promising clear skies, as the rest of my holiday has been plagued with the kind of cool weather known as the ‘coldfront’ which, I have been told, the tide has brought in. Luckily today unfolds into a warm and bright afternoon, although the ocean continues to attack the shore and my attempts to swim are futile. Needless to say I get crushed by a wave and my shoulder ends up scraped on the sand, leaving me aching and bruised, but strangely victorious and happy at my brave attempt.

As I board the plane to leave windy Cuba, with its beauty and culture, behind me, what I take with me are not souvenirs that one can physically hold (well, apart from the cigars - you have to take home Cuban smokes!) My greatest souvenirs are my memories of unforgettable and striking natural images, like the large albatross type birds swooping over water, dunking into it beak first, then floating on the surface like large ducks; the quiet strolls through the peaceful grounds of my hotel; that shade of aquamarine water that is unsurpassed in richness and beauty; or the feel of the soft powdery sand between my toes. But most of all I remember the trees: numerous varieties of cactuses growing everywhere, the sweet smell of huge carobs and mangroves which emerge out of nowhere framing the shore. Last, but certainly not least, those palm trees, with their short, thin, fat, or lumpy barks; like plastic models dotting the beach, coconuts dangling perilously overhead, they sway gently in the wind, silhouetted against the sun as it sets on the horizon. In the distance the sea is endless and wild.

Nathalie Kyrou © 2008. All rights reserved to the author.

TRAVEL - Egypt /Nile

The Secrets of a Great River - A Cruise down the Nile by Nathalie Kyrou

Forget the pyramids. Cruising along the still waters of the Nile, stopping at temples along the way, is the perfect and most relaxing way to get a real sense of prevailing Egyptian history. The journey down the longest river in the world offers an authentic sense of Africa in Egypt. Only a couple of hours flight south from Cyprus lies an entirely different world, a photogenic land and river whose cultural depth and historical magnitude are stupendous and awe-inspiring.

Modern-day Luxor, otherwise known as the ancient city of Thebes, was Egypt’s capital at the beginning of the 18th dynasty and remained a religious centre even after the capital moved to Memphis and, later, the Nile Delta. Luxor is where most of the cruises for floating hotels along the river begin, sailing southwards to their final destination, Aswan, in what in ancient times was referred to as the region of Upper Egypt (in term of the Nile’s northerly flow).

After settling into our rooms on our ship, the M/S Mojito, we had the entire day to tour Luxor, before lifting anchor the next morning. After getting the schedule break-down from our own personal guide, Abdulla, who was to accompany us on the entire trip, we hopped into our own private mini-van and crossed the large gates of Luxor into the surrounding countryside.

In the ancient Egyptian cosmos, the realm of the dead lay beyond the western horizon. Across the Nile in western Luxor, a succession of New Kingdom rulers had tombs cut into cliffs. Here you can find the tomb of the famous Tutankhamun and the Temples of the Nobles. The legendary Queen Hatshipsuet of the 18th Dynasty - the only queen to rule Egypt during the time of the Pharaohs - built her temple at Deir el Bahri, and although Egyptologists have yet to find her body, some believe it lies in the nearby valley. The famous Queen Nefertari, known from the myriad of representations of her in temple reliefs, was also buried in the nearby Queen's Valley. Her tomb is considered to be the most beautiful of all queens' tombs, both for its design and its brilliantly coloured painted decoration.

After a brief stop to take pictures at the Colossi of Memnon (where two enormous statues of seated figures are all that remain of the monumental avenue leading to the temple of Amenhotep III), we arrived at The Valley of The Kings, one of the main attractions of the region, and a major tourist spot. There, nestled amongst gargantuan, rocky mountains, lie prehistoric rulers’ carved-out tombs, once stocked with goods for the afterlife. The renowned Ramses II (a.k.a Ramses the Great, of the 19th Dynasty, ca. 1539-1075 B.C), who restored traditional beliefs and fought a succession of foreign foes during his reign, was buried here and had his temple erected nearby. The Valley of the Kings was impressive - I was most amazed at the intricate and beautiful hieroglyphics, especially at the enduring vibrancy of the originally used colours.

On our return journey into town, we stopped off at an alabaster factory in the village of El-Korna. Four young Egyptian men, sitting on the floor outside, were working on crude slabs of locally collected alabaster, from which they were producing refined sculptures and assorted containers. We were explained the working process in detail, after which we were left to wander around the shop (I later regretted not purchasing one of the exquisite works of art from there, as prices at the airports for comparable souvenirs were quadruple the cost and the selection limited). I accepted a tiny piece of alabaster as a gift from one of the men, only to be told afterwards, to my amusement, that I must give him money for it. This was only one of the many times where I was reminded that tipping is extra, regardless of whether your trip covers all expenses. Although being expected to disperse cash to everyone around you at all times can take some getting used to, it is important to realise that people out here survive on tips. Thank goodness for our guide, who could advise us how much to give and to whom.

Abdulla, in his early thirties and originating from Aswan, was the ideal guide. A history guru, excited to talk continuously about his country – and not in the least bit weary from already having done it countless times before – he told us that the Nile supports nine countries, each of which allow water to pass downstream, on to the next. He also mentioned, to my surprise, that it only rains here every five years or so, and only for only a few minutes. No wonder most of the huts around us had no roofs! I knew this was desert country, but where did so much of the river water come from then? I discovered that the Blue Nile, which rises from Ethiopia, provides most of this water, while the rest comes from the longer White Nile which rises in the Great Lakes region of Central Africa, from its source at Lake Victoria. In fact, the Nile flows some 6,695 km from the meeting point of the two rivers (which merge near Khartoum in Sudan), to the Mediterranean, where it ends in a delta that empties into the sea. Another interesting fact: the word "Nile" comes from the Greek word Neilos (Νειλος), meaning river valley.

As we were visiting Karnak Temple later that afternoon upon our return to Luxor, Abdulla proceeded now to relate the history and importance of (and thus reason for) the cornucopia of temples in this country. Mediator between the Egyptians and their gods, the ruler of ancient Egypt was the country’s highest priest as well as its head of state. By building temples and making offerings, he continually reconfirmed his devotion to the gods. In response, the gods maintained the physical world and all who lived in it. As a result, from Luxor to Aswan, history reveals itself in the form of ancient temples, adorned with symbols and pictographs, their giant columns visible from afar.

At Karnak, riches bestowed on the principal state god, Amun-Re, brought increasing influence to priests at the main temple. Carved from stone, many examples of the monumental art of Luxor can be found in this breath-taking work of architecture which took more than 2000 years to build. Karnak temple was so fascinating and colossal that I was gravely disappointed we only had a short time to explore it - I could have spent days wandering amongst the gigantic columns, sculptures, statues and obelisks, losing myself in the maze of enduring ruins, and in the archetypal hieroglyphics which glittered like gold in the afternoon sun.

However, dusk was beckoning us back on board, where rest and dinner were to be had before our night-time traditional horse carriage ride through the streets of old Luxor. This is perhaps the most popular thing a visitor here can do, and it proved to be an excellent way to get a real feel for the town and its inhabitants – the highlight being Luxor’s marketplace, open until the early hours of the morning. Hidden beauty can be found in even the poorest of places, and Luxor market is the perfect example: baskets of colourful spices and tiny Egyptian lemons, neatly arranged in rows, adorn the streetsides, beautifully laid out alongside racks of shoes and hanging clothes and materials; motorbikes, bicycles, horses decorated with bells - their backsides shaved into designs - and pedestrians of all ages weave their way around basketed goods and horses; ironmongers, shoe-makers and other merchants go about their daily work, while groups of men huddle around roadside fires. It was an enchanting and unforgettable outing, well worth the 20 USD extra per person, even though it is possible to bargain for a cheaper ride. My only advice: don’t get off the carriage at any point, or attempt to walk anywhere in town without your guide, or else you will be hassled incessently by locals wishing to sell you their goods or simply asking you for “bakshish” (Arabic for tip or gratuity).

We didn’t have time to visit Luxor Temple the next morning, but we did watch it from a distance as we set off south on the first leg of our cruise. As we disentangled ourselves from the rows of cruise ships stacked next to each other like sardines in a tin, and moved away from the fleet of ships setting off in a cruising parade, I started to notice the scenery changing. As we left the town behind, urban imagery was replaced by rural landscape. This is at this moment when I began to get a genuine sense of the river Nile.

Watching cattle grazing lazily on the tall grasses of the river bank, while small fishing boats, piled high with stacks of sugarcane, dotted the beaches, I was reminded of Egypt’s past. The country was once a savanna roamed by elephants and gazelles, where humans hunted and gathered their food. About 7,000 years ago the climate changed and all but the land closest to the river turned to desert. This is how two great forces – the Nile River and the surrounding desert – shaped one of the world’s most enduring civilisations. Settling by the Nile, people began to farm and form communities. Each year the river overflowed its banks and deposited a fresh layer of rich earth across its floodplain, nourishing its people. Now, thousands of years later, farmers still harvest the fertile surrounding ground, and the Nile was, and still is, used to transport goods to different places along its long path.

We passed by several old villages, their cubic shaped houses of mud and brown clay, occasionally painted in pastel pinks and blues, lining the coast. Barefoot children seemed happy, playing on muddy banks. Roofless huts made from yellow stalks, bunched and tied together to form sheltering walls, speckled the foreground, while in front of them groups of women wrapped in brightly coloured scarves gathered by the river, filling their containers with water and waving to us as we drifted along by. Other women were washing clothes and carpets in the olive green stream, while men, dressed in long, loose white tunics, their heads wrapped in turbans, walked along dusty paths, balancing large baskets of goods on their head. Others sat on rickety rowing boats, fishing for unknown treasures. Further on, in between villages, palm trees, filled with sweet and succulent dates, crowded the shoreline, while patches of dessert sand lay beyond. Everywhere I looked, donkeys and camels were scattered across the lush vegetation, living in harmony with nature and humans.

As we cruised along over the next couple of days, the Nile widened, then narrowed, then widened again, offering us an abundance of breathtaking panoramic views and contrasting scenery: clouds of smoke billowing out from amongst verdant fields, banana plantations covering the red earth, river weeds swaying in the wind, and in the distance, on the eastern side, clusters of date palms interspersed along the vista of beige, rocky mountains looming high above the occasional silhouetted mosque. To my surprise, at one point a speeding train whizzed by out of the stillness on a railtrack that appeared out of nowhere, rushing along to who knows where. The only thing I noticed swimming in the river, throughout the whole journey, was a large brown cow – and I never even knew cows could swim! Long narrow islets also kept cropping up in the midst of the river, upon which a variety of birds would perch themselves, resting on their golden sands. A nature photographer’s and wild-life enthusiast’s paradise, I discovered the Nile to be the perfect haven for foreigners wishing to escape the bustle of modern city life.

We stopped for a while in Esna, where we were accosted by a throng of merchants trying fiercely and relentlessly to sell us their goods directly from their rowing boats beneath our ship. They would throw up samples of material and ask us to throw them down some money. This went on for hours and was a bizarre and remarkable sight! We then headed south to Edfu, where lies what is known as ancient Egypt’s best preserved temple, dedicated to Horus, the falcon God. A horse driven carriage brought us to the entrance of Edfu Temple, where a chaotic mass of carriages and screaming drivers continuously gather to drop off tourists who need to be extremely prudent to avoid getting lost, stolen from or trampled.

Nevertheless, Edfu temple, begun by Ptolemy III and finished by Ptolemy XII, is worth the hassle. Abdulla informed us that a picture of the temple can be found on a 50 pound Egyptian note, and that from anywhere you stand in or around the structure you are able to see the image of the king carved somewhere. While exploring the interior’s impressive engravings, we learnt that one of the best jobs in that era was that of a writer, and that the hieroglyphic symbol meaning the sound “shhh” was the equivalent term for the word we use today of ‘writer’ (this being because writers worked best in silent conditions, thus “shhh” was a reminder to others to be quiet around them). Interestingly, the word ‘hieroglyphic’ itself actually derives from ancient Greek, where Hieros (ἱερός) = sacred, and glyphikós (γλυφικός) = engraved.

Further down along the Nile, we passed by the Temple of Kom Ombo, where, as with the rest of the places of worship visited during our trip, we were faced with ornate stone engravings revealing details of a culture that still inspires marvel. We ended our cruise in Aswan, located in lower Nubia (which may have gotten its name from the word ‘gold’ – or nub in Egyptian), a region which in the past provided Egypt with ebony, ivory, leopard skins and incense. It was here at the First Cataract, or rapid, near Aswan that ancient Egyptians erroneously believed the source of the Nile to be. The city itself is a much larger urban centre than Luxor, with about a quarter of a million inhabitants, and most men here are dressed in modern clothes, as opposed to the more traditional jallabehas (floor-length gowns), although all women still wear hejabs covering their heads. As with everywhere else we had visited so far in Egypt, only men seemed to be working in public.

Before flying back home from Aswan via Cairo, we visited the High Dam - the world’s largest - which controls and stores a copious amount of water, and produces electricity. The dam helps locals reclaim land and avoid relocation due to flooding, also aiding to preserve Nubian archaeological sites that would otherwise be destroyed. The neighbouring Lake Nasser, at approximately 500km x 30km, is the largest fresh-water, man-made resevoir in the world. To my astonishment, Abdulla informed us that it is also filled with 36,000 protected crocodiles! From Aswan and Lake Nassar, it is possible to discover some lesser-known temples of the Nile, with the exception of the Temple of Abu Simbel, which is one of Egypt’s priceless treasures.

Despite the enormous size of this all, the highlight of Aswan for me was the short sail we took along the coastal town that morning. The felucca, a traditional sailboat, was captained by a man called Ousama who steered us towards Elephantine island, which takes its name from ivory trade and the islet’s surrounding naturally shaped rocks which resemble elephants. After buying a few village hand-made souvenirs from a selection offered to us by the young ship mate, we sailed to shore, where we docked and continued our tour. Aswan is known for its perfumeries, and at Essence of Life, where we stopped next, one can select different samples to buy from a plethora of oils and glass ornate containers. You can even create your own perfume blend right there, as you get a neck and shoulder oil massage while listening to a guided explanation of all that is on offer.

On the whole, this was definitely a trip worth taking, despite the lack of professionality and service from our local travel agent Xenos Travel. Overall, Nugget Tours, on the Egyptian side, were more helpful and accommodating to our needs. In general, all Egyptians were exceedingly friendly and courteous. The cruise boat itself was nothing remarkable but the staff were pleasant and the food better than average. Perhaps the only real entertainment on-board worth noting though was Oriental night, where guests came dressed up in traditional Egyptian costumes, and were presented with a traditional buffet and entertained by a humorous tribal dancer, although it was the memorable swirling Sufi dancer who truly stole the show.

All in all, hotel accommodation in Egypt was filled with unfamiliar (and to me, slightly eccentric) touches: a leaflet in my room advertising Koran praying carpets available for hire; being woken up daily by loud prayers at sunrise; shower heads by all the toilets (I discovered this is because it is customary to wash one’s backside before praying); the man walking around the entire boat at meal-times, sounding his gong to remind passengers that dinner is being served; the souvenir shop owner asking for my sister’s hand in marriage in exchange for 100 camels! Even funnier was the fact that it took me ages to realise that Egyptian hotel staff were not talking about poultry when they kept saying “Chic – en”, but were referring to check-in! What I loved most was trying the odd but delightful combination of flavours on the breakfast buffet, from freshly made orange and carrot jams to foules (fava beans) and pomegranates.

Yet it is the actual cruise on the river, rather than the boat itself, which offers one a true taste of the real Egypt. As your ship navigates past palm groves, temples, sand dunes, villages, and monuments, thousands of years of history unfold before your very eyes. So far as the Nile seems endless, its history seems never-ending. Yet, for something so immense, the Nile is strangely peaceful. It is a river with real presence – its character coming alive once you have cruised along its sparkling and tranquil waters. Like the hieroglyphics which are engraved on the walls of antiquity, the Nile will remain etched eternally in the memories of those who have been fortunate enough to experience it.

Copyright © Nathalie Kyrou 2008